I do the same thing on a MacBook Pro with an M4 Max and 64GB. I had problems until the most recent LM Studio update (0.4.11+1), tool calling didn't work correctly.
This. I get much more value than 90€ from my Claude Code subscription. I am willing to pay more for consistency and not having to watch my back all the time, because I might get screwed over.
That's not really "lying" — ARR is usually understood as your projected "Annual Run Rate". It's a useful metric, as long as it is understood that it is an estimate.
But, in all honesty, all RR numbers are estimates. MRR is also a "made up number" from a certain point of view: it is not equivalent to cash received every month, because of annual subscriptions, cancelations, etc.
>But, in all honesty, all RR numbers are estimates.
Sure, but I would expect you to have at least one data point or at least near it, before making any estimates for that timescale.
I don't see many people make MRR projections based on 2 days of of sales, it's just something I've noticed with startups and ARR.
This is unfortunate, because I would love to use Kagi (in fact I was a subscriber before I learned about the above). For some of us, money flowing to Russia and/or search index data coming from Russia are moral issues.
I also don't like giving money to Russia, but unfortunately Yandex seems like the last big search engine not to censor a lot of results (I know it won't last forever).
But your first sentence is interesting: this should not depend on where someone is from. I think it's rather sad that it actually does depend on it in practice: if bombs are dropped on your head, you take things seriously, if bombs are dropped on your neighbors' heads', somewhat less so, and if you're half a planet away, let's do business!
I make my own choices so that I can sleep better. I know this isn't popular. The usual approach is either whataboutism ("but what about X which is worse?") or doesntmatterism ("the thing you care about doesn't matter in the Large Scale of Things"). If you read the replies in this thread, almost all of them can be classified into one of those two stances. Importantly, each stance leads to doing nothing.
I don't subscribe to either of those ideologies. I don't have all the answers, but I do not believe that doing nothing is the right answer.
> A horn or bell is mostly for telling other people "hey I'm here, stay out of my way and dont suddenly cross into my path"
This. I only use the bell on bike paths, too. Sometimes it feels like a game of pac-man, where baddies will wander into my path from all directions and in all kinds of ways. Cars doing a right turn, zombies staring into phones, people walking backwards (!), zombies staring into phones walking backwards, it doesn't end.
FWIW, it's better to stop and talk to the dog. Dogs don't really want to bite you, most will just chase you and don't really even know why. If you stop and confront them, they are confused and don't know what to do next.
Get off the bike on the side opposite of the dog and keep the bike between you and the dog just in case, if you are afraid.
That is an issue on bike paths that are build inside a sidewalk, the cycling path is usually build using a smoother surface than the one designed for pedestrians. Plus it sometimes has a brighter paint.
I am pretty sure most people don't realize it but they are inconciously attracted to it. It just feels better walking on it.
That's an issue on any bike path in the US, even if it's a fire road in the middle of nowhere. I bet there are people walking their dogs or checking Instagram on the single track course that is used for the Red Bull Rampage.
Yeah, it happens on sidewalks, bike trails, mixed use trails, and dedicated bike lanes. If anything, dedicated bike lanes are the worst because they get errant pedestrians and cars.
No, every bike path in a city inevitably has crossings or is laid out next to a sidewalk. People just do their random-walk thing (Brownian motion, really, sometimes) and wander into the bike path.
Sometimes you clearly see more people on the bike paths than on the regular sidewalks. And I definitely attribute that to its smoother nature compared to the fake cobbles you have in many places, amplifyied if there is a baby stroller in the mix.
I've been trying both Whisper v3 large and Parakeet in MacWhisper, and I inevitably go back to Whisper large. Which one is better depends on what you dictate, how you speak, and which languages you use.
This guide is legendary. It helped me to learn and follow the process, and I made some pretty successful parts. For example, my own keycaps for all keyboards that I use: much larger than usual (for my large fingers), with a pleasant gently matte texture, in beautiful colors.
Polyurethane resins are an amazing achievement, and very much underrated. So are platinum-cure silicones. With care, you can get design-to-parts precision of ±25μm, which is spectacular (and a bit surprising, too). The fact that modern polyurethane resins (Sika Biresin F50) have essentially zero shrink helps quite a bit, too.
Incidentally, there is a whole bunch of youtubers doing casting using epoxy resins, or cheap silicones, there is a large following, but this is not representative of what the techniques really allow.
If you want to step up from 3d-printing, this is the way to go! Especially given the proliferation of inexpensive desktop CNCs with really good precision (Makera and others).
Those resins are absolutely fantastic but do read the MSDS and be very careful, it doesn't take much to get yourself in the emergency ward with that stuff. Another risk to be acutely aware of is that these reactions usually are exothermic and can go runaway faster than you can blink of the conditions are right.
Of course, one should always read the MSDS. I use a 3M respirator with VOC inserts while working on these things. However, one should mention that a) polyurethane resins and platinum-cure silicones are much safer than many other compounds, and b) polyurethane resins are different from the more common epoxy resins and reactions are only very slightly exothermic. It's not a problem like when you're building a river table.
As a rough estimate, using a resin 3d printer is more problematic than these compounds.
A CNC router is on my list of tools to figure out and own. Routing aluminium, wood, and things like HDPE and being able to make moulds for silicones and resin? Yes please. 3D printing on the other hand never appealed to me.
I would strongly recommend NOT following the general advice of buying a cheap "3018" or something similar. Makera Z1 should be the baseline. Otherwise you're stepping into a world of frustration where you will spend most of your time trying to get your tool to work, rather than getting parts produced.
Unfortunately, reasonably precise and rigid mechanical assemblies do have to cost a certain amount of money.
Agreed. If you want to just make parts and not tinker with a CNC machine, get a Z1.
I had near-zero experience with CNC and got a Cavera Air last year and it mostly "just works" from the hardware side. I just fixture stuff and run my gcode, zero issues with the hardware. The Z1 seems to be even more streamlined w/r/t things like chip evacuation.
But, my god, Makera's firmware/software is fucking garbage. Especially the CAM workbench.
The community firmware and controller software (https://github.com/Carvera-Community) is so much better and feature-filled that it's kind of sad. They also have a tool library and post-processor for the FreeCAD CAM workbench in that repo which will let you make a clean break from Makera's terrible software.
On the upside: Makera apparently won't invalidate your warranty for using the community firmware/controller software, which is nice.
Start with one of the cheap kits on Amazon. A good chunk of the learning curve is software/design/workflows. On the machine side, learning how to properly secure your work pieces, and find the right bits, speeds, and feeds is another art. You can do all of that on a ~$300 3018 CNC kit. Your work output is limited in size, and precision, but that doesn't matter as much when you're just trying to get the hang of things.
I have both, and a manual lathe and mill, and a laser cutter. 95% of everything I do is with the 3D printers. There is no indexing, no work holding, no dealing with shavings or smoke or dust or cutting oil that gets everywhere, no accidentally breaking your last end mill, no screwing up the only one of the thing you're cutting into, no cutting down stock so it fits in your machine, etc. You just press print. Setting up another machine is a right hassle by comparison.
3D printing and plastic parts isn't good for everything, but it is good enough (and easier) for a lot of things.
Yeah same. I’ve done a lot of CNCing but 3D printing isn’t appealing because I don’t care much for making plastic parts. When metal 3D printing becomes hobby tier I’ll be all over it.
Today 3D printing makes a lot of thing possible. Now that multi-toolhead printers are coming, some already available, it's possible to make composite parts. Like hard frame in soft wrapper, conductive lines (resistance still high), etc. I'm still learning, but it's exiting.
As for CNC, some cheap tabletop are available. FreeCAD is useful for design and g-code generation. The problem with cheap they are imprecise and shaky. I'm thinking about using 3d printed frame with metal everything else. Should be light enough to lift with one hand. For precision it'll need calibration from time to time as plastic moves. The goal is to have 3 axis mini CNC mill able to cut soft metals with precision better than 0.1mm.
I currently use MacWhisper and it is quite good, but it's great to see an alternative, especially as I've been looking to use more recent models!
I hope there will be a way to plug in other models: I currently work mostly with Whisper Large. Parakeet is slightly worse for non-English languages. But there are better recent developments.
I wish they had a "and we won't screw you in two weeks" plan at, say, 5x the price. It's worth it for my business, I'd pay it.
Should I switch back to API pricing? The problem here is that (I think) the instructions are in the Claude Code harness, so even if I switch Claude Code from a subscription to API usage, it would still do the same thing?
FWIW I've only ever been on the API based plan at work and we never seem to run into the majority of the problems people seem to be very vocal about. Outages still affect us, and we do have the intermittent voodoo feeling of "Claude seems stupider today", but nothing persistent.
Of course it's a stupid amount of money sometimes, but I generally feel like we get what we're paying for.
I never managed to get anything useful out of opencode, to be honest. I tried it many times, with various models. Claude Code always just worked better.
Now both codex and opencode seem to work.
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